Getting back to David and Brian’s trip….
On the morning of our 28th birthday, we headed to Lake Atitlan. Again, David and Brian were not overly excited about the prospect of getting on a chicken bus. We actually let one pass us on the highway, hoping for one that was less crowded…but the next one was just as bad so we didn’t wait any further. David and Brian got on before me so I just decided to sit up front (Side note: Any gringo girl traveling can pretty much secure a seat at the very front….special privileges , sexist I know, but I take advantage anyways.) I observed my brothers through the driver’s rearview mirror – they were both standing in the aisle in the back of the bus with their backpacks still on, holding on for dear life. It was a short ride – only twenty minutes – but I think that was enough! They got off in the back so that they didn’t have to go through as many people. Evidently, while they were on the bus, Brian told Cecilia to take a look at David’s face….I guess he was giving them a “this is miserable” look…I can only imagine:)
Then it was only a short mini-bus ride to the lake, while we engaged in a conversation about how messed up the transportation in Guatemala really is. First of all, there is no such thing as a straight road...if you get motion sickness; this is not the country to visit. Secondly, things really aren’t that far away distance-wise, it just takes forever. For instance, the lake is really only 8 miles from Nahuala but it takes two hours to get there…explain that one to me.
Once we checked into our hotel overlooking the water (with an absolutely beautiful view mind you), we headed to a local place for lunch. This struck up a conversation about another common occurrence in Guatemala (one that I don’t normally pay attention to). Service in Guatemala can be VERY VERY SLOW! I began to take notice during David and Brian’s trip, how long it takes to place an order and actually get your food in about every restaurant we walked into. There is no such thing as a fast meal…which can be good and bad I guess. But it’s not like Spain or Italy, where food is a leisurely past-time…it’s just that the service here is slow and customer satisfaction is a foreign concept.
Following lunch and hanging out at the hotel for awhile, we decided that we needed to hit the ATM. One of my friends mentioned that there was no money left in the ATM – but we decided to take our chances. Let me take this opportunity to describe most of the towns located on the lake: The tourist part is normally water-front, beautiful views, lots of hostels and bars; The Guatemalans, however, live in the part that is above and beyond the lake. We didn’t feel like walking up the big hill to get to the Guatemalan side of town, so we hopped in a Tuc-Tuc (i.e. a small golf cart/motorized taxi). This was in fact a great idea because it served as a city tour:) At the ATM, we had a little bit of an incident. First of all, we found out that the reason my friend couldn’t get any money out is because there are certain ATMs that make you take out a minimum amount…a minimum amount which is in reality pretty high. Afterwards, my friend Cecilia set off some kind of deafening alarm (David and I were stupidly worried that she was going to get locked in - even though the door handle was made of string)…so we made a quick escape into a dark alley. We found the secret pathway back to the area where we were staying…and I have to admit, if David and Brian had not been with us, Cecilia and I probably would have taken it…but seeing that it was pitch black through the woods, we opted for another Tuc-Tuc ride. This particular Tuc-Tuc couldn’t make it up the big hill, so they made Cecilia get out and she ended up having to walk up after us…first-class all the way.
The next day we took a boat over to Casa Del Mundo, an incredible hotel built into the side of a cliff right on the water-front. The water was way too cold to swim, and David and I tried to kayak in the afternoon but the waves were too choppy from the boats and the clouds that had rolled in. Interestingly, the water level had risen quite a bit since the last time I was there….which is weird because we’re in the middle of the dry season. Since I have written about this hotel before (I bring all my guests here) I will forego further details. But David and Brian did have a pleasant surprise after retiring to bed….they found a couple of huge spiders (i.e. looked like tarantulas) camping out in their room!
After living in luxury for a night, it was time to head back to Antigua for the final day of their trip. Instead of chicken busing it, David insisted that we book a direct shuttle from Pana (which was absolutely fine with me as long as they were paying for it). We ended up riding with this crazy tourist who commented every time she thought we were about to get into a wreck…yes, drivers are crazy, but for god’s sake close your eyes if you are that nervous.
For our last day in Antigua, we went shopping for souvenirs. David and Brian surprised me in that they both loved the carved masks that are sold in the tourist markets. Both of them bought a couple to hang on their walls at home. We then headed to a sports bar to watch some Sunday football...this is where it gets really good. We are sitting at a table minding our own business, when all of a sudden two women that were sitting behind us, decide to join us. They are both extremely talkative, begging me to translate to David and Brian how cute they are, how much they like them, do they have girlfriends, yada yada yada. Well, they get pretty annoying but I end up talking to them anyways. Finally, one of the bartenders comes over to me to say hello and whispers in my ear that they are hookers. Everything makes perfect sense after that…they tell me they are models, that they dance for certain events, they explain the process of having to get made up, how long it takes to put extensions in and do their makeup, they even invite me to go out with them telling me that they can get me in to any club in Guatemala City and that I will get first class treatment, etc. Pretty funny! What’s worse is that before I knew they were hookers, I gave them my phone number and even told them where we were staying that night…stupid. Evidently, the wait staff was laughing at us because they all knew the secret…
The last hoorah was a hike up Pacaya, one of the two active volcanoes in Guatemala. I have hiked up this volcano about four times but never for the sunset tour. Also, because of the lava activity this year, the hike up is much more difficult than it used to be…needless to say, I was the most out-of-shape person there. Once we got to the top, the sun was already setting. It was pretty cool to see the difference from the last time that I was up there though….the lava flows had expanded so much that it didn’t even look like the same place! Like I have mentioned before, they let you get right up next to the blaze …so we started our trek over the molten rock to reach the fiery river. This is difficult because you don’t know where you are stepping and you have to pay close attention so you don’t fall. Once up close and personal, we took some pics, and then I decided to lead the pack and start heading back. I knew we didn’t have flashlights and I didn’t want to get caught out there once the sun was down…no broken ankles for me, thank you. So by the time our group was ready to head back down the mountain, it was pitch black, we had maybe two people in our group with headlamps (the tour guide didn’t even have one), and it was freezing. Sorry David, I know this wasn’t very enjoyable for him because he kept worrying about me, but I really couldn’t see a thing. I mean, I don’t even drive very well at night, so can you imagine me trying to hike down this little path through the woods with a pinpoint of light….it was miserable! I was so glad once we were at the bottom and I didn’t have to worry about tripping over a root or a rock or a snake…
So that pretty much concludes their trip! I asked them what was their favorite part of our excursion…and shockingly, they both said they really liked Nahuala, my own town. I think this is because Nahuala really reflects the true Guatemala…the off-the-beaten track, genuine culture, non-touristy, real-life picture of Guatemala. I think they also came to the conclusion that all volunteers are pretty much crazy…but hey, we have to be a little bit nutty to do this anyways right? I would venture to say that they were ready to go home after a week, back to the US, its convenience, and their comfort zones…but we had a great adventure and I’m glad that I got to show off my second home. It’s weird but I always hope that visitors will love this country as much as I do…and it’s almost like I would be disappointed if they didn’t because of the fondness that I hold. Glad I got to share it!
Love as Always,
Carin
P.S. Next up, my encounter with Muhammad Yunnis!
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